The Easy Bit The mountain transforms base items into good: nausea from home-made trail mix and chocolate burns into energy for the ascent; the cold that stings the ears is a new sensation in the Tropics; to be awake, trudging upwards before dawn, with little choice, no personal precedent, seems like freedom. Yesterday's guide had offered no guidance, shadowed me like a secret policeman for five hours' climb through cloud (an altitude or whiskey headache was comforted by sound: cicadas, squirrels, swaying trees) to overnight shelter in a sleep-defying refuge. This morning's moon illuminates a lunar landscape on earth's upper crust. A group of squaddies clatters past like a noisy British train with a timetable to keep. A section all by rope bestows a taste of fear, then only light-headedness can stop me. I take it easy: pause, walk, pause, walk unsteadily to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu, where the camaraderie of minor triumph renders sociable all who arrive, a-shiver, to watch the receding night sketch outlines, etch shadows, release mountain chains as it flees Borneo. I gaze down to the foothills where this began, unconvinced that my unsound legs have covered so much height. The descent is shorter, tougher. Toes rebel inside non-climbing boots. Knees ache to give up, to buckle and renounce. Rock gives way to forest, rhododendrons abound. The body endures. That climax of conquest at the summit, a sublime moment free of time, proves the easy prelude to a hard descent to a life it has enriched.
Bryan Murphy
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