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Bentzman |
Suburban
Soliloquy #48
DRIVING TO
KENTUCKY
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We started out on Friday after sunset.
Leaving Levittown, Ms Keogh (my more
significant other) and I drove the more than
650 miles [1,050 km] through the night to
reach Lexington, Kentucky. Our stay in
Lexington would be short, merely a day and a
half. The entire point of this trip was to
see our newest granddaughter, Whitney, who
was not yet a month old.
Ceaseless stretches of highways made
anonymous by the darkness passed through our
headlights. To eat up the long hours, we had
stocked our vehicle with CDs. We listened to
Bizet's Carmen and Gilbert and Sullivan's The
Mikado, enthusiastically singing along,
humming or scatting when we didn't know the
words.
A half moon accompanied us for most of our
journey and, towards the end, had gotten
ahead of us to lead the way.
We also occupied the time with conversation.
Ms Keogh and I just recently saw the remake
of Planet of the Apes. As much as I
appreciated the costuming and apish manners
of the actors in Tim Burton's version, I
preferred the original 1968 version with its
intelligent story and thought-provoking
dialogue by Rod Serling. Ms Keogh had not
seen the original, so part of our journey was
occupied with my detailed recounting of the
entire movie as best I could. I did not leave
out mention of Charlton Heston's charming
derrière. I tried to reenact scenes without
taking my hands off the steering wheel -
"Get your stinking paws off me, you damn
dirty ape!"
Mountain followed mountain, each higher, as
we crossed the Appalachians. At the tops of
some, the elevation was posted. Each
presented a long climb that slowed the speed
of the car. The highest I remember was over
2,800 feet [850 meters]. As the peak
approached, the horizon would drop away and
we could just make out the odd-shaped,
tree-covered peaks on either side,
silhouetted against the less black sky of
stars. Then came the long drop into the next
valley and the car would approach 90 mph [145
kph] - well, that's as fast as I'll admit to
here in print.
Morgantown, West Virginia, was the halfway
point in our journey. We stopped long enough
to refill our gas tank, and then Ms Keogh
decided to drive the next leg of our journey.
The unlit highways of West Virginia gave her
a gruesome challenge - deer. The amount of
venison on the roadway was unbelievable. We
must have driven past two dozen carcasses,
not to mention the streaks of blood where
bodies had been removed. Live deer stood at
the edges of our high beams and watched us
zip by. So it seemed only inevitable when we
hit one of those corpses that occupied the
middle of our lane. We had just passed a
police car turned sideways on the shoulder so
as to light a first body with his headlights.
The light blinded us. A truck's lights behind
us continued to blind us. Our eyes did not
recover quickly enough to see the next dead
deer that came soon after the first. Ms Keogh
saw it too late, and from the passenger seat,
I saw it a moment later. She placed the
corpse (assuming it wasn't just sleeping)
between the wheels, but my 2000 Honda Accord
Coupe did not have enough clearance. There
was a loud boom and the car jerked. The hood
[bonnet] popped up, but the safety latch kept
it from opening completely, although it came
loose and vibrated vigorously. We pulled off
at the next exit so that I could shut the
hood and inspect the underside of the car
with my flashlight. I couldn't really see
much of anything. There were no streetlights.
However, the car continued to perform
flawlessly, so we didn't worry.
Coming out of the mountains of West Virginia,
we approached a disturbing blob of light. It
was our welcome to Kentucky. We entered the
Commonwealth of Kentucky by crossing the Big
Sandy River to be greeted by an immense
refinery complex. It was a frightful and
unfriendly vista. The stars vanished as we
entered into the bubble of brightness, a
windowless city of steel tanks and tubes,
pipes and columns, well-lit but deserted of
people. Jets of blue flames crowned the tops
of tall metal stacks. We past through this
harsh and comfortless place. From this point,
the road straightened, and flattened, and
grew exceedingly boring. The moon dissolved
and vanished in an overcast. It had recently
rained, having left the roadway darkened and
damp.
It was about four o'clock in the morning when
we pulled into the parking lot of the
Marriott Hotel at Lexington. The trip had
taken barely more than ten hours and that was
with a stop for dinner on the Pennsylvania
Turnpike. Not bad.
After we dropped off our bags in our room, we
went to a local all-night eatery for
breakfast. This was my first taste of
Lexington, Kentucky. I watched the barehanded
cook peel my waffle off the waffle iron and
drop it on my plate. They didn't have little
creamers of half-and-half, a ubiquitous item
for one's coffee throughout the East Coast.
In the South, the use of artificial creamer
prevails. I drank my coffee black. Nor did I
put butter on my waffle. Butter is prevalent
everywhere back home, but in the South, it is
only in the better eateries. Where we had
breakfast they offered only some imitation
made from soy.
Except for the pleasure of seeing my son and
his family, I was not happy with the city of
Lexington. A Sunday stroll downtown had
nothing to offer, except the new main library
which was open on Sunday. The city is tiny
and there are no obvious museums. I was glad
when we had finished our visit and were on
our way home. I was eager to be out of
Kentucky. My family delighted me, but
something about Lexington and the surrounding
countryside depressed me. In truth, I found
the long drive to Lexington more stimulating
than being in Lexington. I was glad to be
once again ensconced in the car, eager to
distance myself from Lexington, invigorated
to have home be my destination.
Our daughter and grandson, who live in
Philadelphia, had been visiting Lexington
since Thanksgiving Day, and now they were
accompanying us back. We were on our way
home, but I did not escape Kentucky without
one last frustrating delay to torment me - a
speeding ticket. Despite the day and a half
in Lexington, this police officer was the
first person I met with a heavy Southern
drawl, and it required an effort on my part
to not react to it. Such is the training of
us Yankees from television and movies to
associate ignorance and bigotry with such
accents. It is unfounded, to be sure, and I
consciously knew better, yet I could not
dispel my anxiety that this was a redneck,
good ol' boy with a loaded weapon. Here I
was, a Jewish Yankee, Ms Keogh a Catholic (of
sorts), and our daughter and her son
African-American. In my imagination, the
officer would call his buddies and they would
take us down some side road to be lynched. He
was, however, nothing but business-like. I
had my ticket and we were free to go, but I
didn't feel comfortable until we past the
foul refinery at Catlettsburg and crossed the
river back into West Virginia.
Again we were passing through up and down
West Virginia at night and Ms Keogh had
elected to drive this leg of the trip. There
was fog, sometimes heavy, usually in the
valleys, but occasionally at the mountain
tops. We were crossing over a mountain ridge
when our daughter, sitting in the back seat,
happened to look out the rear window.
"Look!" she called out. I turned my
head and saw the ragged peaks encircling a
valley filled with fog, forming a cauldron of
eerie smoke. The fog glowed, ignited by a
gibbous moon hanging over the far ridge. Then
we crossed the mountain and the nightscape
was blocked from view. Ms Keogh, who was
driving and focused on the road ahead,
watching for deer, didn't see it and was
disappointed. I reminded her that there would
be other trips and new horizons to see.
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